Fact-checking cosmetic trends: Systematic review of the use of topical astragalus derivatives to treat dermatologic conditions

Shangi Fu1,2, Swathi Holla1, Harrison Zhu1, Sophia Fu3, Kate Liu3, Annie Vu3, Zachrieh Alhaj4, Danny Huynh5, Ola Khaled Soliman1, Ida Orengo6

1School of Medicine, Baylor College of Medicine, Houston, TX, USA, 2Human Genome Sequencing Center, Baylor College of Medicine, Houston, TX, USA, 3Glenda Dawson High School, Pearland, TX, USA, 4John Sealy School of Medicine, University of Texas Medical Branch, Galveston, TX, USA, 5Embedded Systems Engineering, Teal Systems, Houston, TX, USA, 6Department of Dermatology, Baylor Collegeof Medicine, Houston, TX, USA

Corresponding author: Zachrieh Alhaj BS, BA, E-mail: ztalhaj@utmb.edu

How to cite this article: Fu S, Holla S, Zhu H, Fu S, Liu K, Vu A, Alhaj Z, Huynh D, Khaled Soliman O, Orengo I. Fact-checking cosmetic trends: Systematic review of the use of topical astragalus derivatives to treat dermatologic conditions. Our Dermatol Online. 2024;15(4):337-344.
Submission: 21.05.2024; Acceptance: 25.09.2024
DOI: 10.7241/ourd.20244.2

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© Our Dermatology Online 2024. No commercial re-use. See rights and permissions. Published by Our Dermatology Online.


ABSTRACT

Objectives: Astragalus plants and their derivatives have been used historically for the treatment of various conditions, and they have recently been used to treat dermatological diseases and as topical cosmetic enhancers. In this consolidated systematic review, we analyzed current peer-reviewed publications regarding the topical effects of Astragalus derivatives on the treatment of dermatological diseases and whether the current market claims of its benefits and harms are substantiated.

Methods: A systematic review using PRISMA criteria was conducted, and two independent reviewers selected and collected data from 9 papers that met the inclusion criteria.

Results: Findings from these papers demonstrated that topical Astragalus derivatives were effective in the treatment of alopecia, atopic dermatitis, wound healing, contact dermatitis, dermatophytosis, and psoriasis. The beneficial effects of Astragalus in these dermatological conditions were attributed to its immunomodulatory mechanisms.

Conclusion: The wide availability of this product allows its easy use for treating common dermatological issues. However, these articles are limited by their assessment of use on non-human mammals, the short duration of trials, and unclear mechanisms of action that limit research development. Future research is needed to close these gaps before the development of Astragalus-based pharmaceuticals for dermatological conditions.

Key words: Astragalus, Cosmetic, Dermatology, Traditional medicine


INTRODUCTION

With over 2000 species identified Astragalus plants are part of the Leguminosae family, grow well in temperate environments, and are commonly used in Asian traditional medicine for a wide variety of ailments, including dermatological disorders [1–5].

While initially used for livestock and human consumption [6], Astragalus has been used in Chinese traditional medicine in treating diabetes, hypertension, and cancers, including leukemia and uterine cancer, as well as used for antiperspirant, antimicrobial, and tonic properties [4–7], Astragalus extracts are mainly made of saponins, terpenoids, flavonoids, and polysaccharides, which are believed to serve as active ingredients with antioxidant properties that can impart expedited healing [8]. Decreased aging is also found with astragaloside administration, a derivative of Astragalus extract, where the mice treated had brain function and blood serum composition more similar to younger mouse populations [9]. Traditional and modern uses of Astragalus include enhancing skin health and preventing and treating dermatological diseases. Traditional Chinese medicine uses astragalus as a Qi enhancer, known as life energy believed to travel through the human body, thus promoting the immune system, increasing vitality and energy, and preserving skin health [10–17]. Extract from Astragalus gombiformis has been shown to absorb UV radiation at an SPF of around 37.78, prevent inflammation at a percentage of 75.38%, and have a cytotoxic effect against Artemia nauplii but not against human erythrocytes [18]. This species of Astragalus has also been found to have at least 17 phenolic compounds that have strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties [18]. Astragalus membranaceus was found to reduce DNA damage due to UVA exposure [18]. Topical astragalus, specifically Radix astragali, both fermented and non-fermented, have been shown to stimulate keratinocyte and fibroblast growth and hyaluronic production, and have low toxicity in vitro tests [19].

There are already products on the market that contain a large concentration of Astragalus derivatives. Listed on INCI Decoder, there are over 90 topical skin creams, toners, and essences with Astragalus currently on the market [20]. Some of the marketing claims advertising these products include “boosting energy,” treating skin problems associated with “diabetes” and “night sweats,” and resolving “acne,” “psoriasis,” “rosacea,” “hyperpigmentation,” and “dermatitis” [21–23]. Companies claim that it is useful in “deep moisture” due to “excellent absorption of the production” and it improves “skin elasticity,” “inflammation,” and “collagen production” [21–23].

Fortune Business Insights projects an economic increase in the skincare market, worth around 133.90 billion USD in 2018 to 200.25 billion USD by 2026, with a substantial percentage from the Asia Pacific. This sets the perfect environment for a large expansion of Asian skincare products that include Astragalus [24], thus potentially false marketing regarding the efficacy of this ingredient in dermatological diseases. Because of the long history of Astragalus use in medicine, including skincare, as well as the current integration of Astragalus in the cosmetic industry, consolidation of the available literature on the efficacy of topical Astragalus is vital in critically addressing current marketing claims and increasing consumer and manufacturer awareness of its uses.

As of this paper, no study has consolidated its benefits in all dermatological diseases through in vivo topical application. In this paper, we are performing a systematic review of the current publications regarding the topical effects of Astragalus derivatives on cosmetic properties of the skin, including the treatment of dermatologic diseases. We addressed its beneficial and harmful effects on skin health, determined the limitations of each study found, and consolidated this knowledge to disprove misleading marketing claims.

METHODS

Six possible search terms were created through the use of boolean operators, including the following: Astragalus topical skin*, Astragalus topical derm*, Astragalus topical cosmetic*, Astragalus topical hair*, Astragalus topical nail*, Astragalus topical beaut*. A C#.NET console application ran the search terms through PubMed to query the resulting links through an HTTP request. All subsequent literature was collected in February, 2022 and there were 27 publications gathered. Duplicates were removed and 18 publications were unique. Using our inclusion and exclusion criteria, the abstracts were initially reviewed to determine the papers’ relevance, and irrelevant articles were removed. Our inclusion criteria included trials measuring the topical use of Astragalus derivatives on the skin in vivo in treating dermatological diseases, tested on animals and humans, and published at any point in time. Exclusion criteria include trials that do not have a vehicle or control; trials that focused on in vitro and ex vivo results; trials that only had histological parameters; reviews, commentaries, editorials, or any publications that did not present any original data; and articles not written in English. The resultant sum included 11 papers that fit the exclusion and inclusion criteria given (Fig. 1).

Figure 1: PRISMA Model of the performed methods, updated as of Feb 2022.

These publications were read entirely for their content, leading to a final 11 papers that fulfilled both the inclusion and exclusion criteria. Different data points were collected from each paper, and to reduce the risk of bias, different data points were collected by two reviewers, independently. The subsequent information was consolidated, and limitations and potential future research were assessed, discussed, and recorded. Data categories that were not included in each study were listed as “Not Available (N/A)” (Fig. 1).

RESULTS

Conglomerate Publications Information

The average sample size taken was 23.6. The average length of the studies was 12.5 days. Of the studies, mouse test subjects were most frequently utilized (77.8%), followed by rats (11.1%), and guinea pigs (11.1%) (Table 1).

Table 1: Summary of Publication Data.

Alopecia

The Astragaloside IV component of Astragalus membranaceus was shown to lead to recovery of hair shaft length and broken hair follicles in depilated mouse skin, likely through inhibition of apoptotic pathways in 7-week old female mice with natural hair loss in the telogen phase, whereas controls remained depilated (Table 1). Astragaloside IV markedly decreased caspase, NF-kB, Bax and p53, Fas/Fas-L signaling, and upregulation of anti-apoptotic Bcl-2 [25,26]. These apoptotic pathways have been associated with a transition from the anagen (growth) phase to the catagen (regression) phase of the hair growth cycle [27,28], thus leading to hair loss.

Atopic Dermatitis

Astragalus membranaceus has demonstrated various anti-inflammatory effects that have alleviated atopic dermatitis symptoms in mice [29,30] (Table 1). Treatment with Astragalus membranaceus in mice with chemically-induced atopic dermatitis resulted in a reduction of skin thickening and hyperplasia in both the epidermis and dermis when compared to negative controls. These findings may be due to decreased inflammation resulting from Astragalus membranaceus restoring NF-κB expression and suppressing Th2-mediated pathways and TNF-a [29]. Similarly, a paper investigating the effects of an herb mixture including Astragalus membranaceus on mice with chemically induced atopic dermatitis found that treatment resulted in reduced skin thickness, itching behavior, lichenification, and mast cell infiltration. In this study, Astragalus membranaceus was combined with 4 other herbs in equal parts, so it is difficult to attribute these effects solely to Astragalus [30].

Contact Dermatitis

Astragalus membranaceus fisch ex bunge (AM) alleviated the severity and symptomatology of contact dermatitis in male mice (n=30). In terms of scratching behavior, epidermal and dermal thickness, AM demonstrated a similar, significant reduction compared to dexamethasone. AM also significantly reduced mast cell infiltration and Th2-mediated cytokines were also reduced significantly, but dexamethasone was more effective [31].

Wound Healing

Astragalus membranaceus induced basal cell proliferation, angiogenesis, and suppression of inflammation, leading to rapid significant improvement of wounds in comparison to epidermal growth factor (EGF) [32] (Table 1). Another study found that the Astragaloside IV component of Astragalus membranaceus led to improved wound closure and re-epithelialization in mice with diabetic ulcers induced by streptozotocin significantly greater than in control mice [33]. Extracellular matrix (ECM) components, such as collagen or fibronectin, were also significantly increased in the mice treated with astragaloside IV. Significant upregulation of angiogenic markers, such as CD31, VEGF, and vWF, likely mediates these regenerative mechanisms [33]. Similarly, in non-diabetic mice, a study by Fayazzadeh and colleagues found that the application of Astragalus gummifer (Tragacanth) as a wound dressing resulted in greater wound closure, contraction, epithelium repair, and wound healing index with no inflammatory cells compared to equal amounts of control intervention (sterilized water) [34].

Dermatophytosis

Astragalus verus olivier topical application of greater than 20% concentration was able to demonstrate greater clinical efficacy against Trichophyton verrucosum infection in guinea pigs compared to negative controls [35]. Clinical outcomes of negative controls demonstrated patches of hair loss, ulcerated or scaly skin, and severity of lesions [35]. While the 10% Astragalus verus olivier was able to induce some antimicrobial effects, these results were not as significant as the >20% concentrations. However, the application of griseofulvin demonstrated the greatest effect [35].

DISCUSSION

Topical application of Astragalus in animal studies has shown alleviation of various skin conditions, but none have investigated its effects in humans.

Most studies suggest that the beneficial effects of Astragalus are due to immunomodulation [29,30,33,36,37]. One study investigated antimicrobial properties but was unable to identify a mechanism for the antifungal action of Astragalus verus olivier [35]. Few studies investigate side effects or efficacy compared to accepted pharmacologic treatment. One study comparing Astragalus to other treatments found that the overall efficacy of Astragalus extracts was lower than standard-of-care treatments [35]. However, a different study by Han and colleagues found that the effects of Astragalus were superior to those of EGF in wound healing [32]. Future studies comparing Astragalus to approved, standard-of-care medications could be relevant to clinical practice, if tested on humans. As an example, comparing astragaloside IV to FDA approved drugs for hair loss, such as finasteride and minoxidil, may demonstrate interesting results.

In wound healing, upregulation of angiogenic factors may be one mechanism for Astragaloside IV. Astragalus gummifer’s wound-healing abilities may be related to structural similarity to chitosan, another arabinogalactan-containing polysaccharide biopolymer that has been demonstrated to accelerate wound closure [38,39]. There are current materials on the market, such as HyaloFill, based on the extracellular matrix and polysaccharide structures intended as skin substitutes [40]. In the setting of MOHS microscopic surgery, these materials have been shown to clinically augment wound healing [41]. However, no human trials on Astragalus and wound healing have been conducted and animal trials are potentially confounded by variations in animal behavior that may diminish wound healing activity. Applying separate wounds to the same animal may also reduce this limitation [34]. While this data shows some promise in the topical use of Astragalus as a dermatologically effective ingredient for treatment, a major limitation is that none of the current literature measures its effects on human subjects.

Another limitation of many of the reviewed studies is that human skin conditions were studied using animal models with chemically or other artificially induced skin conditions, rather than on animals that had naturally developed these skin conditions [29,30]. Due to this limitation, the effects of Astragalus on humans with organically developed skin conditions may differ from what was observed in the above studies

Even with these limitations, further publications support that Astragalus derivatives are a promising ingredient to incorporate as an adjunct to currently established treatments for dermatological diseases. It is appropriate to use commercially as a cosmetically beneficial ingredient and may be implemented in the future for clinical use. While there are major limitations to some of the studies that were discussed, preliminary data in vitro and in vivo supports the proposed mechanism in skin diseases, and show that it does not induce skin irritation, decrease dermatological symptoms, promote wound healing, and may treat alopecia.

CONCLUSIONS

With its long history in medical use throughout Asia, Astragalus is a species of plant that has become more widely used in modern medicine and cosmetics. Its growing popularity in commercial use begs the question of its efficacy on dermatological conditions with topical application. We found that Astragalus has preliminary animal research supporting its treatment of dermatitis, alopecia, dermatophytes, and wound healing, and has the potential to be more effective than established treatments. Additional experimentation is still needed to measure its effects long-term, against current treatments, and in human trials, however, its current use in cosmetics, skincare, and clinics can be beneficial to consumers to enhance skin health and treat skin diseases.

Statement of Human and Animal Rights

All the procedures followed were in accordance with the ethical standards of the responsible committee on human experimentation (institutional and national) and with the 2008 revision of the Declaration of Helsinki of 1975.

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Notes

Source of Support: This article has no funding source.

Conflict of Interest: The authors have no conflict of interest to declare.

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